Talk Without Speaking

We manage to get out and about a bit today although the weather is still somewhat miserable; pouring rain and howling winds whip through town. Peter, a man that we met at the co-op last night tells us that it’s “really shitty weather” and I am glad to find that the locals agree that the weather is crap ? I was worried that they might be saying something along the lines of, “Oh, what wonderful weather we’re having”.

Pang is, quite simply, amazing. I’d say about 85% of the population smile at us and/or greet us as we walk through the streets; it’s hard to imagine a more welcoming place.

Meanwhile, back at camp, we find that we are forced to abandon our cooking tarp as it is simply too windy. Although we have 10-15lb rocks holding the tarp down on top of the wind barriers in camp we begin to find that the wind is so powerful it is able to push the rocks and there is a growing danger that one might land on top of our heads (1, 2) as we cook. There’s a sign that sits at the entrance to the camp site which has warned us about this. It reads:

At times, the strong squalls bowled them [the dogs] over completely while they struggle with mournful howls to keep on an even keel. Even one of the heavily loaded sledges was upset. Stones up to 10 or 15 lbs in weight had been hurled over the ice by the vicious winds” - J. Dewey Soper, January, 1925

The steep sides of Pangnirtung and the surrounding mountains funnel northeast winds down this narrow gap. At Pangnirtung Pass winds reach over 150km/hr.

Here in the hamlet, many buildings are anchored to the ground with cable. And for good reason - the wind once blew the Hudon’s Bay store down the fiord. A good blow can last for days. At such times, ropes are strung between buildings and from house to house both to help people find their way and to anchor them in the storm.

If you camp here, please be sure your tent is well secured. The big rocks are especially useful.

HAVE A BLAST

In the evening the wind dies down and gives us the opportunity to enjoy what will be our last night in Pang alone before our trip into the park. The highlight of the meal is the dehydrated Garlic Pesto Fry Bread!